Sandwiches, with all their changes, are an invite to enthusiastic tinkering. They are often stacked up towards heaven in some layers or full of a whole Thanksgiving dinner. They’ll overflow with soupy meats and be eaten with a fork and knife. After which there was that point KFC used fried chicken as an alternative of bread to do the difficult work of containing sliced cheese and bacon. The risk is that a very kooky sandwich values shock over logic.

In the initial stage, the Porkinator — served at Pilar Cuban Bakery in Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn — appears to be one among these sandwiches, designed as a dare. It’s named like a personality in skilled wrestling and incorporates five several types of pig product.

However, as a substitute for veering into the carny-sideshow territory, it seems to be much more intelligent and earnest. There are crunchy starbursts of chicharrón, housemade chorizo that tastes as if somebody bottled a smokehouse, and complete ham croquetas, their insides gently funky and hot-dog pink. An easy ham-pimento unfold acts as each condiment and stabilizer, protecting the factor from turning into a multitude on the wax-paper-lined plastic boats that Pilar serves virtually all the things in. It’s a wild sandwich that makes lovely sense.