Within the wake of the COVID-19 disaster, legacy eating places comparable to Delfina have closed quickly, others have closed for good (RIP Locanda), some are scrambling to pivot from eating room service to takeout and supply, and nonetheless, others have truly opened anew (Tosca and Reem’s). It is unimaginable to say which of those companies has a rougher go: beginning a restaurant in San Francisco comes with an entire slew of challenges, as does operate a well-liked one, even with loyal clientele, world pandemic apart.
Within the pre-coronavirus period (you understand, just some weeks in the past), we appeared in on Hahdough, a not too long ago opened German-model bakery on a busy stretch of Fell Avenue, simply off Divisadero. The burgeoning enterprise was scorching, with freshly baked pretzels and plump Berliner donuts flying off the cabinets and desserts being greedily taken to-go. The store was closing its doorways by noon; its confections bought out. Now, with the restaurant group turned the other way up, Hahdough is, up to now, nonetheless chugging alongside, providing a style of one thing pleasant in any other case miserable occasions.
“There is a feeling that a bit of little bit of life, and the promise of one thing a bit extra particular than simply the standard groceries, goes an extended strategy to enhancing morale,” stated Christian MacNevin, husband and enterprise companion to baker Ha Do, who offers their konditorei, or conventional German bakery, its title. He acknowledges that many companies within the neighborhood have already closed, however, says the Hahdough workforce stays devoted to supplying the group with candy treats for at-house consumption (“Our employees have a lease to pay, and so can we”).
Raised in Germany, Do’s childhood was permeated by the sugary aromas and flavors of desserts being baked at dwelling. Later in her life, she interned in a bakery after which labored with a Swiss baker earlier than transferring to the States. Over the previous a number of years, she has perfected her personal interpretations of basic German recipes, working from Fifties cookbooks in addition to from recollections of her previous.
The result’s a contemporary-day San Francisco tackle a tasty German custom, and one which has attracted the town’s personal German group to Hahdough.